Changing the clutch release bearing on a peugeot 306.?

[gsac]

1.4 Alpine M Reg 1994:
Can anybody out there provide a detailed instruction on how to change the clutch release bearing and what tools are needed. would be much appreciated. thank you.

[fivetoze]

i hate to say this, but if you have to ask, then forget it.

its a gearbox out... and it takes us in a garage with ALL the kit a few hours, and we struggle at times... its a rather fiddly job, with lots of associated components to be removed... and rebuilt.

average price 200 quid PLUS the clutch... (the gearbox is off, so change the whole thing... a pug clutch is about 120 quid...

[Trevor Trillion]

Wow, gsac, you are full of questions today. But since you like my answers...here goes.  Step by step. Changing a clutch on a 306, or any of the TU family of Peugeot engines (205, 106, 306) with an MA 5 or MA 4 gearbox.
NEED TOOLS:  socket wrenches, torque wrenches, hex allen/imbus of 8mm. maybe even screwdrivers and hammers, heck...everything a mechanic has!

From off the top of my head...
1.  Remove battery .
2.  Jack up the front end of car one foot off the ground
3.  Drain gearbox oil, find the drain plug (8mm square bar needed).
4. Disconnect the gear selector rods at rear of gearbox. (two)
5. Disconnect anything else that seems to be in the way of reaching the starter motor.
6.  Remove starter motor, and of course the red battery cable.
7. Remove black battery ground wire.
8.  Remove your hat and swear a lot.
9.  disconnect speedometer cable from rear of gearbox.
10. disconnect clutch cable from top of gearbox.
11. Support the entire gearbox from below with a jack on 4 wheels.  Then remove any connection between gearbox and left-hand motor mount.
12.  Unbolt about 12 bolts that join the gearbox to the engine. Some of them are hard to see and reach with tools and fingers.    Lie on your back to see all screws.
13. I think I remember unbolting the exhaust pipe under the engine, but forget why at the moment.
14.  separate the gearbox from the engine.  It does not need to be forced.  Check for a bolt you overlooked.
15.  Swear again, cause a difficult thing is about to happen...
16.  Drop the gearbox down below the car. there is only two millimeters to spare in any direction.  AAAaaarrrrrrgggg!!
17.  Notice the position of the clutch spring.  Remove the 6 bolts progressively, little by little.
18.  Remove the clutch spring (also called pressure plate).
19.  Remove the clutch disc. (also called driven plate)
20.  Remove the throw-out bearing (release / thrust bearing) from the gearbox side, on the shaft.
21.  Take these 3 pieces to the autoparts store and buy the exact size.  Give the old pieces to save yourself a "core charge" for the used metal.
22. Put it back together....use a proper size rod to temporarily, perfectly center the plate behind the spring.  TORQUE ALL BOLTS to specs.
23. Put the release bearing on the gearbox shaft.  HOLD it firmly in place with some rubber bands. It must not slide out of place for the next steps.  Ribber bands can later break away, we don't care. (TAKE A MOMENT to compare the spinning effort of the old bearing compared to the new one. Feel the diff?)
24.  UPwards goes the gearbox.  Have a friend help you, it's heavy mate! Position it perfectly.  Push the shaft into the engine hole. (I don't remember a gasket at all)
25.  Bolt up all those gearbox bolts, to the proper torque!.  I make it sound easy don't I?
26.  Put all that little stuff back on....I'm getting tired now.
27.  New gear oil back in the fill hole (directly behind left tyre). Fill until it runs out the edge.
28.  hook up battery, gear linkage,speedo cable....
29.  drink a beer
30.  don't phone me.....
31.  maybe I forgot some little things..have an experienced friend do this with you. I made it sound easy.  First time is very hard. Fourth time is easy.